Chowing Down in Coyoacan
There are lots of eating options in Coyoacan, but I had two particular items on my agenda: a bowl of pozole and an octopus ceviche.
I had my octopus at El Jardin del Pulpo (sing it, Ringo!), at the mercado. Overlooking the street, at the edge of the market, it has long tables, and specializes in ceviches and cocktails as well as some hot dishes. My octopus and shrimp ceviche was fabulous.
At a little indoor cluster of food stalls right by the main plaza is a vendor reputed to have the best pozole in Mexico City. Pozole is a soup whose main ingredient is hominy; it can be served with various meats and is often garnished with sliced radishes and shredded lettuce. One seasons to taste with ground red chile, oregano and lime.
This particular pozole place is so popular that I got the last seat a few minutes before 2 PM, when they start serving. The other big item in the market is deep-fried quesadillas, a Coyoacan specialty, but I was trying to save myself for dinner. In fact, I even had my pozole sin carne ($4, $6 with meat), because I didn't want to stuff myself.
It was definitely the best pozole I've ever had, with a delicious broth made better by my additional seasoning.
If you find yourself in Mexico City, a visit to Coyoacan is absolutely essential. Meat in your pozole is optional.