Sunday, May 20, 2007

Lukewarm on Lupa

I was taken to lunch at Lupa the other day. I never turn down an invitation to a Batali restaurant when someone else is footing the bill. I've been to Babbo once, in its first year, and I've had five meals at Otto (Batali for the masses, but always quite impressive), but I'd never been to Lupa before. I had a fine lunch, but it really was nothing memorable.

The antipasti were quite good. Two of us shared three items: broccoli rabe with pepperoncini, tongue (thinly sliced with a bit of a fruity sweetness), and sardines with fennel and saffron. The sardines also had pine nuts and raisins, so I'd say it's a take on the Venetian sarde in saor. I didn't taste any saffron.

My main course was the pork shoulder with rose petal glassato. I don't know why they use the word "glassato" in an otherwise English description, but it wasn't rocket science to figure out it means glaze. The meat was moist and soft, and I suspect it had been braised and oven-finished. I wasn't thrilled with the sweetness of the glassato.

One thing is certain about the pork shoulder: they really need to work on the visual presentation. I'm sure it doesn't have to look like a lump of shit on a plate.

Lupa on Urbanspoon


Blogger mrfroopy said...

Peter, I have always liked your posts, but I seriously disagree with you about Otto being excellent. I really think that Otto is the ultimate in cynical mediocrity,meant to remove the money from so many Batali worshiping sychophants..I'm sorry.

11:54 AM  
Blogger Peter Cherches said...

The things I've especially enjoyed at Otto were the pasta with pork cheeks, the funghi-tallegio pizza, and most of the seafood antipasti.

12:05 PM  
Anonymous Charleston South Carolina Real Estate said...

I have to say that the reply from mrfroopy was hysterical...why mince words? must make mincemeat out of them, if you don't like them!!

All kidding aside...I thoroughly enjoy your posts...keep on keeping on for those of us who enjoy armchair dining and then some!!


Charleston South Carolina Real Estate

5:18 PM  
Anonymous Icarus said...

I continue to feel that Battali's venues are the emperor's new clothes. Otto is the Cheesecake Factory with a succo di pomodoro on top! Just making pasta al dente does not mean it's well=prepared.

10:33 PM  
Blogger Lana said...

Lupa really sucked. I went with 4 friends and nobody was thrilled with anything. Service was terrible and noise level was unbearable. Only good thing was the affordable and good selection of Italian wines.

5:38 PM  

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